New Orleans 1: Curiosities.

“The first thing you notice about New Orleans are the burying grounds - the cemeteries - and they're a cold proposition, one of the best things there are here. Going by, you try to be as quiet as possible, better to let them sleep. Greek, Roman, sepulchres- palatial mausoleums made to order, phantomesque, signs and symbols of hidden decay - ghosts of women and men who have sinned and who've died and are now living in tombs. The past doesn't pass away so quickly here.

You could be dead for a long time.”

Bob Dylan

I've just returned from a visit to New Orleans:  if there's a city in North America that will make you believe in voodoo and vampires, this is it.  Much of the city is just like any other city, but that doesn't matter - the heart of New Orleans is really in places like the French Quarter and Garden City, where the modern era is a thin facade over the past.

The French Quarter in particular is one of the defining aspects of the Crescent City's mythology.  Its shuttered, silent houses, legacy of its European roots, lend it an air of brooding withdrawal, and its elaborate ironwork and distinctive architecture hark to a different time.

There's a faint underlying scent of mold and rot that permeates the Vieux Carré, an odour of degeneration and decay that belies the bright lights and cheap drinks of the Quarter at night.  The main thoroughfares are crowded and well lit, but the side streets are dark and empty - it's not hard to imagine that an unwary visitor might wander away from the light and have a terminal encounter with a nosferatu.

The other defining feature of New Orleans is its evocative cemeteries, filled with crumbling crypts and tombs, worn by time and weather.  You have to visit the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 - Marie Laveau, the Voodoo Queen of New Orleans, is buried here. They say she never aged, that she could see the future, that she could be in more than one place at one time.  They've restored her tomb, but the triple-X markings of worshippers are still visible under the masking white paint, and people still manage to leave behind an offering or two in hopes of a boon from the Queen.

It used to be that anyone could go into the Cemetery No. 1, but there were too many problems, too much vandalism, too much violence.  Now admission to the Cemetery is only allowed for groups with licensed guides, people who have relatives buried there, and, who knows, perhaps for people who are already buried there themselves.

You could be dead for a long time...

- Sid